Yes, this would have been more helpful BEFORE the 4th of July, but there are fireworks being shot off all the time so you'll have lots of opportunities to hone your technique.
Back in the film days, shooting fireworks was really guesswork. You'd shoot some film, make some notes about exposure settings, get the film processed, finally see the pictures (usually the next day) and then, in conjunction with the scribbled notes, make some conclusions and try to remember what you learned for the next time.
When digital cameras arrived, the exposure controls weren't really up to the job. No f-stop settings and no 'bulb' setting to hold the shutter open. Now with a dSLR, (digital Single Lens Reflex) things are much easier: fast and easy adjustments to the lens angle (zoom), exposure settings (f-stop), and a remote shutter release to open and close the shutter, and of course, the preview to make adjustments on the spot.
Many years ago, I had the good fortune to watch a pro taking pictures of the fireworks on the National Mall in Washington DC. He was using a 4x5 view camera. (I said many years ago...) but his basic process made sense and was easily adapted to the SLR.
Try to frame up your shot BEFORE it gets dark. If you're in a new location, ask someone who has been for fireworks before about where they set them off, where they will burst, how high, how wide, etc. and then be prepared to make adjustments to your camera angle and/or location after the first shots.
Set your lens wider than you think you'll need. You can always zoom in and/or crop later. I like to include some treeline and foreground elements in my shots, too. I use a 28-70mm zoom, set pretty wide.
You MUST use a tripod. You don't need anything fancy, but the steadier the better. I don't even extend the tripods legs, I sit on the ground and see through the viewfinder and I don't obstruct the view for people around me.
Put the camera on Manual mode.
Set your aperture (f-stop) to f16, as a starting point and then make adjustments as you shoot.
Higher f- stop number = smaller opening = less light = sharper lines.
F-stop set too high = too small of an opening = not enough light = little skinny lines.
Too low = too big of an opening = too much light = over exposed fat white lines.
Set the shutter speed to 'B' or 'bulb'. This setting lets you to open the shutter for as long as you want. I have a remote control that opens and closes the shutter without touching the camera. If a remote is available for your camera, get it. I use it all the time.
If your camera doesn't have a 'bulb' setting, put it at a long setting, like 15 seconds.
When the fireworks start, watch the first shots through the viewfinder to see if you've got them in the frame.
Then before the next shell goes up, open the shutter. A moment or so after the shell bursts, put a dark card (or your hand) in front of the lens (try not to touch the camera) and wait for the next shell. After a shell bursts, the lights start to trail down and drift in the breeze. If you don't block the lens, you'll get those wiggly lines in your shot.
Watch and listen for the next shell going up, and remove the card (or your hand) just before the shell bursts. Do this for a few shells and then close the shutter.
Look at the image preview and make any adjustments before the next shot.
There's still plenty of guesswork about how many 'bursts' to capture in one exposure, so I am always in pursuit of the perfect shot.
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